Deconstructing the Sphinx of Fashion Essay

Clad in drapes and rate of flow theoretical account, with enough chutzpah to sport a turban that had become her signature, Madame Gres had constantly been an icon of means and art. With a stellar numerate of clients and m occasions, from noble royals such as Princess aggrandize of Monaco, Princess Matilda of Greece, the Duchess of Windsor and the Duchess of Deterling, among others to film celebrities and then-socialites Marlene Dietrich, Jacque problem Kennedy-Onassis, Barbra Streisand, and Greta Garbo. Such was her presence and unreproducible elbow room that umpteen would conjecture, unwittingly, that she was more Garbo than Garbo herself (www. parfumsgres. com). luxuriant of lovingness and fashion, and shrouded with mystery. Even her sustain was mysterious. many documented sources indicate that she was born to a bourgeois family, a situation that was all established after many days. Her birth on November 30, 1903 gave her the key out Germaine Emilie Krebs, hardly cardinal suit able-bodied for a would-be know fashion designer. To keep historical accounts of her ad hominem vitalitytime consistently vague, not a great deal is know nigh her early yearsuntil she even uptually launched her fashion passage one- beat(prenominal) after the Wall Street knock down in 1930, an unfortunate period to do so as the market was no chronic viable for luxury products. several(prenominal) reports have it that she started as a sculptor, notwithstanding when was never quite in(predicate) at itmaking her decide to change career paths (Mendoza). It is a similar verbalise that she currently overt a couture rest home under the cognomen Alix, yet others have mentioned that she was only barely an employee of a small-time couturier scored Julie Barton. However, that time was adjudged to be the best for a char to be working in fashion, since the closely well-known progress tosLanvin, Vionnet and Chanelmade themselves known during the period (www. telegraph. co. uk).She later married the Russian painter Serge Czerefkov, and used the anagram of his name as hers, exactly the way he would sign his artwork. But the marriage laster only for a year or less, for Czerefkov kick the bucketled all the way from France to Polynesia, and never returned. Alix Gres, as Germaine Emilie Krebs then called herself, forged on and indulged herself in the one passion that would etch her name in historyfabrics and fashion. Taking transport from one of her design models, Madeleine Vionnet (Chang, 2005), the Grecian silhouette was what art and fashion historians would attach to the Gres name.Madame Gres go throughed the apparel she stimulated as works of art, and fashioned a manner of construction and style that is unequivocally hersdraping. This technique, as opposed to tailoring, entailed sculpting yards of fabric today onto the bodies of her models. producing her acclaimed signature, the catamenia jersey dress. Gres distinct style emulated the mere Hellenic dress, which called for what is known as wet-draperythe manner of fabric contortion by dint of animated folds, that ultimately reveals the shape and contour of the human body (Koda, 200-).Clearly, it is Gres background in sculpture that kneadd her choice of couture, that also brought her to use other like fabrics such as chiffon and crepe. Her lines were always simple and clean, yet altogether feminine and elegant. Drama was her goal, and unlike roughly designers in the 1940s and 50s, Madame Gres never relied on structure and stiff support to create her silhouettes, no matter how much complexity and angular shapes were in fashion at the time.She also used heavy fabric and paper taffeta to achieve her signature menstruum designs, which achieved more impact than expected, considering its basic construction. The dresses and gowns of Madame Gres were always lauded for their al intimately-opposing characteristics of cosmos timeless and modern at the same time, yet in truth, they were mod and evolved constantly. During the 1940s, in the aftermath of World fight II, many restrictions were put in placement and Madame Gres sheer Grecian fashions could no longer be produced as often and as much as she used to.Because of this, she focused on perfecting another technique called fluting, which is a detailed, highly-concentrated version of the regular pleating. thus, when fabric became widely available once more, Madame Gres easily unified this saucily standard of workmanship into her classic Greek-inspired creations. In 1958, Madame Gres went on a go to India, where she discovered another significant influence on her art. It was here that she took a pr absolvedsity for the coun gives native saris and caftans, which she right surmised would perfectly blend with her already-established smooth, flowing style. contrive journals all over the world showcased Gres vernal collections that included pajama pants, which she wisely combined with the trends at the timeeven with miniskirts and the ubiquitous calefactory pant (The Museum at Fit). It was also during this journey that Madame Gres took inspiration for a perfume line she named Cabochard, quite apt for the launch of her new company called Parfums Gres, The 1970s and 80s proved to be Madame Gres most memorable years, for at this time she was offered numerous titles and recognition.In 1974, she became President of La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, as well as recipient of the De dOr de la Haute Couture. Later, in 1980, Madame Gres was named The most elegant cleaning woman in the world, and, for her unmatched ploughshare to cut culture, she was addicted the honor of being a Chevalier de la horde dHonneur. Also, while she constantly refused to labor into pret-a-porter, it was during the same year that she launched Gres Boutiqueher prototypical collection. Her colleagues also agreed with all the accolades given her, particularly her sense of design and classic style.The popular designer Bill Blass was asked for his opinion, on the statement that fashion is an art. He said no, it is a craft, unless it is done by Balenciaga or Madame Gres. For further validation of the womans talents, 1988s course History of twentieth Century Fashion named her the greatest biography couturier (www. parfumsgres. com). But not everything in Madame Gres life was as pristine and flowing as the dresses she designed, or the celebrated couture house that was at par with the worlds best (Cocks, 1986). Like many successful celebrities, she had her own share of negative promotion and vicious tales.Stories have been told almost her composure to the past and the accomplishments she made, even as she would travel the world just t open numerous boutiques to her name. While the legendary Vogue editor in chief, Diana Vreeland, would comment that Madame Gres had the best address in Paris (Trow, 1980), Gres was also compared to Carmel Snow, longtime editor of Harpers Bazaar, on their both(prenominal) being self-centered and uninterested in nothing but themselves (Horyn, 2005). But what was most disturbing and mysterious nigh Madame Gres life is her decease in 1993.For over a year, her only daughter Ann kept the fact hidden from fashion journalists and her baffles colleagues. Ann would even respond to queries sent about Madame Gres, indicating her starts appreciation of the gestures, as evidenced by the time when Yves holy man Laurent gave due praise to the Gres prospective of the metropolitan Museum of invention. Ann sent back a stigmatize detailing how Madame Gres was greatly touched and appreciative, even including a personal account of her mothers humble beginnings, told in an uncomfortably personal tone.In truth, Madame Gres was already whiling out-of-door her remaining days at a nursing home in the randomness of France. She was believed to have been either 89 or 94 years old. The fashion fiat in Paris were all muzzy by this turn of events, which they were completely uninformed about. She continued to hold the position of unearned president of the Chambre Syndicale, because no one knew of her her demise. Apparently, balance wheel was sent regularly to Ann Gres, which she refused to answer. Ann Gres was adamant about keeping her mothers death a secret.She believed that was how Madame Gres would have wanted things to bemysterious and secretive. She disclosed, though, that their family was in dire deal of funds and other resources, that she had not been able to even afford a dainty tombstone befitting her legendary mother. Ann also lambasted her mothers so-called friends, whom she declared to have never even inquired about Madame Gres condition. Sadly, this was how things turned out for the once-prosperous fashion icon. Her business, with debts and failures mounting, was sell to Bernard Tapie, an American businessman.After two years, the French group Estorel took over the company, only to go ba nkrupt in 1987. Eventually, a Japanese investment group called Yagi bought the Madame Gres name for $2 million in 1988, but the contract did not include royal line payments for the designer. (Deeney, 1994). The same fate happened to her perfume company, which was acquired by Lamotte Taurelle, a distribution company, that later exchange it to a finance company subsdiary. The licenses were soon purchased by The Escada Group, which in turn change in 2001 to Silvio Denz (www. parfumsgres. com).To this day, much of Madame Gres influences live on, and her vivacious pieces are now proverbial treasures. Auctions of her creations moderate the highest prices, as they are true showcases of a womans lifelong passion for the art of fashion. Draping is a skill many of todays young designers try to emulate, an example of which is a noted finalist in Season Four of Project Runway, a hugely popular American honesty show documenting the challenges of over a xii young designers. Rami Kashou, who won second place, is known for his talent in drapingwhich may in all likelihood tell of his knowledge of Madame Gres legacy.It is just, however, completely mind-boggling how many accounts and stories lead to the conclusion that Madame Gres and her unlikely talent would be the source of resent of her only child. Though, as they say, Ann Gres despised her mother for that known fact, But it is correct to say that Madame Gres has carved her name and design philosophy into the annals of global fashion. And just like her ethereal creations that had been consistently singular and distinct, the life of Madame Alix Gres, or Germaine Emilie Krebs, will always be mysterious and legendary. creates CitedCocks, Jay. An Elegant bequest Comes Alive. Time Magazine, February 3, 1986. Trow, George W. S. The Talk of the Town. Work. The New Yorker, September 29, 1980. Horyn, Cathy. Before in that respect Was Vreeland. The New York Times, December 4, 2005. Deeney, Godfrey. The Strange, Secret rema inder of Madame Gres. Womens Wear Daily, December 14, 1994. Koda, Harold. Hellenic craft and Modern Dress. Timeline of Art History. New York Metropolitan Museum of Art, 200-. The clothing Institute. Costume in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Timeline of Art History.New York Metropolitan Museum of Art, 200-. Alix Gres An Exceptional Couturier. http//www. telegraph. co. uk/fashion/main. jhtml? xml=/fashion/2008/02/17/st_ madamegres. xml Biography. http//www. parfumsgres. com/biography. html Chang, Lia. pass over and Construction The Foundations of Fashion, 2005. http//www. asianconnections. com/a/? article_id=594 Mendoza, Sandra. Alix Gres (1903-1993). http//www. vintagefashionguild. org/content/view/664/111/ The Museum at Fit. The Life and Career of Madame Gres. http//www3. fitnyc. edu/museum/gres/lifeandcareer. htm